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From Bien Hoa, just outside Ho Chi Minh City, Highway 51 heads southward via modest
Long Thanh ( famed locally for its impressive fruit market) to Ba Ria. From there, a dog – legged road ventures out across the swampland and shrimp farm of the Vung Tau Peninsula to Vung Tau itself, home of the most southerly beaches on the Vietnamese coast.
Vung Tau, “ The Bay of Boats”, it located some 125km southeast of Ho Chi Minh City on a hammer headed spit of land jutting into the mouth of the Saigon River. Once a thriving riviera – style beach resort, the city’s offshore oil industry and steadily growing port have transformed it into a more business – oriented conurbation, though residents of Ho Chi Minh City still flock here on weekends, when hotel rates rise. However, despite a recent effort to clean them up, the town’s beaches – Bai Dau, Bai Truoc, Bai Dua
Portuguese ships are thought to have exploited the city’s deep anchorage as early as the fifteenth century. By the run of the twentieth, French expats, who knew the place as “ Cap Saint – Jacques”, had adopted it as a retreat from the daily rigmarole of Saigon, and set to work carving colonial villas into the side of Nui Lon and Nui Nho, two low hills near the coast. Shifts in Vietnam’s political sands duly replaced French visitors with American GIs. With them gone, and the Communist government in power, the city became a favored launch pad for the vessels that spirited away the boat people in the late 1970s. These days, it’s become a weekend bolt – hole for the stressed – out inhabitants of Ho Chi Minh City.